RESIN CRAFTING 101: HOW TO USE RESIN FOR BEGINNERS

For all my crafters out there, you may or may not be familiar with resin. But either way, prepare to be AMAZED because this is one medium that sure packs a creative punch. 

From jewelry, keychains & coasters, to decorative trays, pop sockets & utterly useless paper weights, the project ideas are truly endless when it comes to resin art. And although it can be totally customized to every color combo & aesthetic under the sun, there’s no denying a major portion of resin crafting these days has roots in the kawaii goth scene.

Depending on how many hours you spend on Etsy each day (hehe), “cabochon” & “decoden” are terms you’ve maybe seen peppered around. But for the average peeps out there it’s totally fair to wonder: WTH does that mean??

Well, cabochon refers to polished gems that, in the case of kawaii goths, are often made of resin, have flat backs, feature bright/sparkly colors and incorporate kitschy imagery & characters. Decoden, on the other hand, is a term for the “over the top” ~style~ of decorating things like phones & computers using cabochons, rhinestones, pearls, bows, glitter, etc.

But regardless if that scene is *your* signature style, resin is something we ALL can get down with. So I figured I’d share my recent weeks of obsessive research that covers a lot of the need-to-know (& potentially intimidating but nothing to worry about) basics: 

(Please note, this post contains some affiliate links, which don’t cost you anything extra – they’re just a way to passively help support this website a little bit. Thank you so much!)

TYPES/BRANDS OF RESIN

OK, the first time you venture into Hobby Lobby, you might find yourself blankly staring into the shelf of different resins that all look exactly the same. But your lizard brain is right – they AREN’T all the same. Here’s a quick breakdown:

EPOXY

AKA the best (& easiest to find) all-purpose resin. This is primarily what you’ll see at all the big craft stores, since it’s one of the best, most popular choices for all of your jewelry, coaster, trinket tray & shaker needs. It also can give you a super clear (& food-safe) finish – so long as you don’t need to man-handle it too much after curing, or else it’ll cloud up.

POLYESTER

As the name would suggest, polyester resins are many times used in more industrial settings. Think boats, cars, skis & even fishing rods since it becomes very hard, has great heat-/chemical-resistance & (unlike epoxy) can be sanded, buffed & polished once it fully cures.

SILICONE

Silicone is silicone & often not used for jewelry & crafting itself. Because of its rubbery finish, it’s great for making the actual resin molds, but beyond that…just stick to one of the others.

POLYURETHANE

Similar to polyester resin, polyurethane is another one that has a lot of industrial/construction applications. It’s not typically clear, which is why it isn’t always the best choice for jewelry making, & does cure pretty quickly; however, it’s extra sensitive to moisture & can be finicky when trying to color with materials not specifically engineered for polyurethane.

If you’re in need of something to get your jewelry &/or coaster empire off the ground, we (& most of the Internet) would highly suggest starting with Alumilite’s Amazing Clear Cast Resin (not to be confused with Alumilite’s Amazing Casting Resin – which cures white). You can find it at pretty much any craft store & HOT TIP: even though it’s excluded from the 40% off coupon at Hobby Lobby, you CAN use coupons for it at Michael’s! 

Yaaaaas.

TYPES OF RESIN MOLDS

An additionally critical part of your resin project is the mold. Which, to no one’s surprise, come in a variety of different materials as well:

+ First up, plastic. A quick search on Etsy reveals the literally thousands of plastic molds available nowadays. They come in all shapes & sizes at prices that almost always won’t break the bank. And in case you’re wondering how easily they ~really~ pop out in the end, a well-made (& positively reviewed) one shouldn’t give you any trouble at all. 

+ Then, there’s silicone. Knowing the material, they look pretty easy to work with; & lucky for us, they are! There’s no difference in the process of how you prepare & pour the resin, but de-molding them once they’ve set is definitely extra breezy. 

+ And lastly just in case you’re wondering whether silicone chocolate/plastic candy molds &/or flexible ice cube trays from IKEA would work just the same…NO. I know, I know, they look V similar. But casting molds are made with special materials that ensure the cured resin will cleanly release in the end.

All of the molds seen in this blog are from Sparkle Kitty Resin on Etsy!

Also as previously mentioned, Etsy is a *gold mine* for any resin mold needs; however, Amazon is another good place to check out if you’re in the market for starter sets (especially when it comes to earrings, pendents, bracelets, rings, etc).

HOW TO COLOR & DECORATE

Let’s be real, it’s the color & decorations that sold us on resin crafting in the first place. So the good news is that’s where your creativity REALLY has the chance to shine.

In terms of coloring your resin—you guessed it! There are a LOT of ways to do it. Some great, some…not as great.

First off I must preface that a lot of resin brands make their own colorants. So if you want to be safe, that’s a good route. HOWEVER, if you want to get down with the world of *~*non-traditional colorants*~* (which are often a lot cheaper too!) then here’s a little guide of where to start:

+ Mica or pearl powder pigment: a little bit goes a long way, but this super concentrated stuff can be bought in small quantities & come in a TON of fun colors.

+ Acrylic paint: they’re a hotly contested colorant, but for many DIYers out there, this run of the mill craft paint can totally do the job. Just remember to use a tiny amount, stick with non-glitter/specialty varieties & probably do a test round first, since some tend to have a lot of water in them that can mess with the resin’s chemistry.

+ Alcohol inks: these can also be hit or miss depending on the brand, but it can also potentially work & add a unique effect while at it.

+ Eyeshadow: it’s just like the other powder pigments…only not. Though eye shadow is clearly very similar, so it can do the trick, too!

+ NOT nail polish: apparently it doesn’t retain the color very well.

This is a set of multi-colored mica powders I found at Michael’s for only $5 – woohoo!

Once you have the colors down, the next step is figuring out your other decorative elements:

+ Glitter: OBVIOUSLY. From super-fine to larger flakes, there’s so much glitter & so little time to make enough resin pieces to utilize it all.

+ Beads: just make sure they’re the right size for your mold.

+ Sprinkles: either sealed or the fake ones made of clay so they don’t disintegrate over time inside the piece.

+ Stickers or printed images: also sealed, whether it’s with Mod Podge or simple packing tape.

+ Sequins/plastic confetti

+ Mini resin pieces 

+ Dried flowers/plants

As always, play around & see what works for you. Resins can greatly vary from brand to brand, so what’s a disaster for one might actually work like a charm for another.

RESIN SAFETY & OTHER PROTIPS

+ Since we’re dealing with chemicals, safety equipment is also important. So be sure to use plastic gloves, work on top of paper towels & mix your resin in a well-ventilated area.

+ If you’re just starting out, it’s easier to work with a not so teeny-tiny mold just so you can experiment & better see what you’re doing.

+ Until you get the hang of your mold/the texture of mixed resin, be super careful with the pouring process. It often takes WAY less to fill a mold than you might initially think, so slowly *dollop* the resin into the mold to prevent over-filling it.

+ Your resin kit will likely come with a few 1 oz measuring cups to start & you’ll quickly see how easy it is to blow right through them. BUT – if you ever mix more than you need in one sitting, leave your stir stick in the leftover amount to sit overnight, then use the stick to wedge/peel out the cured resin the next day so you can reuse the cup.

+ If you do accidentally over-fill your molds, don’t fret! Once you demold the piece, take a nail file, sand paper or Dremel tool (on low) & sand away the unwanted edges.

+ Here’s a handy table from resinobsession.com (another great source for info!) that notes the demold (when you can remove the pieces from the mold) & full cure times of the most popular resin brands.

+ And finally – for all my crafty babes who are SO OVER having to spend ungodly amounts of time hunting down where things are located in-store, the resin supplies are ~likely~ located near the soap-making, candle-making, acrylic paint &/or Spin It glitter tumbler supplies.

WHEW – that was a lot of information. So go grab another cup of coffee (or glass of wine) & then let’s move onto how to actually do it!

// WHAT YOU NEED //

+ Clear cast resin (as mentioned before, I use Alumilite’s Amazing Clear Cast Resin)

+ 1 or 2 oz. plastic measuring cup(s)

+ Stir/popsicle sticks

+ Plastic gloves

+ Your choice of resin mold

+ Your choice of colorants & decorations

+ Optional: a heat gun (use once you pour the resin, just to help remove the bubbles)

// STEPS //

++ Calculate (or guess) how much resin you need for initially coating the base of your mold & mix EQUAL PARTS (!!!) the “A” & “B” sides.

++ Use a popsicle stick to stir the mixture at a medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes, until all of the gray swirls disappear.

++ Carefully dab a super thin, initial layer of resin into the mold – JUST enough to cover the bottom. If you’re embedding a sticker or beads to show through, place those in the mold at this point. Then, let the mold sit for around 3 hours until the resin becomes tacky.

++ Once tacky, carefully place an initial layer of glitter, sequins, etc wherever you’d like & let it sit for an additional 9 to 12 hours. 

++ 9 to 12 hours later, mix up another batch of resin to fully fill the mold. Add in whatever colorants & glitter you’d like into the resin, then fill your molds to the top – without overflowing it.

++ Wait another 24 hours (or however long your brand of resin’s instructions instruct for “demolding”) & remove your piece(s) from the mold. At this point they should be totally fine to touch/carefully handle, but noticeably still semi-soft.

++ Let the pieces sit for an additional 24 to 48 hours in order to fully cure.

I really didn’t mean for this to be SUCH a long blog, but the more you know, right?

Beyond excited about further exploring the world of resin, so if you have any other tips or tricks to share, please do! Along with pics of any amazing resin crafts of your own.

xxAA

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